On the Road Again--to Assisi!

The morning of departure sounded a lot like an altered version of 'Good Night, Moon:' Good by canal,

good by balcony, good by vaporetto, good by bridge, good by coffee lady! We got on the train with a sigh, but didn't look back. We were on our way to Assisi!

 Over the causeway-

past fields ruined by rain-

all the way to Firenze--Florence to you-

a couple hours more on the train, a taxi ride up the hill (Assisi is a hill town) and we were there--

  Assisi!

We roamed a bit before dinner

and I took once more my favorite pictures that I had taken four years ago when Chuck and I were here:

Such a beautiful setting!

But now to dinner: We ate at Hotel Giotto where Chuck and I had stayed those few years ago, and it was incedible, amazing and wonderful food! Here's the rundown with pictures for almost everything. 

Jackie's antipasto: Umbrian we Bread salad with Olives, Mozzarella cheese and Basil sorbet!!!! I ate it in honor of my dear Grandma Wagner, who also used stale bread in a dish called simply 'Bread Stuff.'

Denise's antipasto: Zucchini flowers stuffed with mousse of Cheeses, gratin with Parmesan cheese and cherry tomatoes!!

Jackie's main course: Home made wide Tortellini stuffed with wild Rabbit sauteed with a sauce of wild game, red Fruits and rings of Pecorino cheese!

Bob's main course:Pork steak on delicate cream of Cannellini Beans flavoured with Orange, Oil with Cocoa of Varhona!!

Denise's main course: Home made Tagliatelle sauteed with Umbrian black Truffle!!!

To wash it all down tastefully:

I am terribly sorry, but I started eating the dessert as it arrived, and sharing, it was quickly gone! Alas, I don't even know what it was, but it was very good!

A few more photos, and we returned to our (fortunately) nearby hotel and went to bed.

Buona Sera!

Our last full day in Venice--sigh...

What to do on my final day here in Venice?  Hmmm, I hadn't been to Murano, ever, so that became the first destination, but I love St Mark's Square... And that's how the list grew. Hold on to your hats, here we go!

Just like Venice, Murano has canals, bridges, and bell towers--plus a really big 'thing' made of glass in a little piazza--

it's a lovely place. I wandered over bridges and back, shopping for my dear family--even a couple small things for myself! 

 

I took this picture on Murano, but people use carts like this one-- some larger, some smaller--all over Venice! Just think about the things that need to be moved in a city where there are trucks and cars. No taxis or busses to carry travelers and their luggage--they pull them along the sidewalk! Think about it, it's impressive and startling. 

And those aesthetically pleasing bridges all have steps going up one side and down the other, though some--certainly not all--of the larger ones have a kind of smooth pathway lane, mostly it's stairs. Not many physically handicapped people out and about!

But let's move on in the day. After a pleasant lunch canalside with Denise on Murano, we split up to return by different ways.  I returned to St Mark's Square (or Piazza San Marco) for one more stroll. Such an expansive, beautiful place!

 St Mark anchors that far end like this--

 and on the our right side as we face St Mark's is Cafe Florian,

with its small orchestra still playing.

Then I took off through the maze of alleys to locate La Fenice, the opera house, but on the way I stumbled onto this church

and a fun photo op--

Now there's La Fenice! 

(BTW, You might want to read Death at La Fenice by Donna Leon; it's a Comissario Brunetti mystery.)

Next, because of a reminder from Jeff this morning, I sought out this amazing external staircase on Scala Contarini del Bovolo:

Is it cool or what?!!!

Then to my final destination (before returning to my home away from home)) Scuola Grande de San Rocco, sometimes called Tintoretto's Sistine Chapel! Of course I wasn't permitted to take photos inside--so why mention it, you say? I tell you about it because it is magnificent, and when you come to Venice, I want you to  be sure and see it, and not on your last day, but earlier so you can go a second time! As my usual back-up, I bought a postcard of a favorite (and took a lousy picture of it) just so you could get some idea of Tintoretto's incredible work. It's the Annunciation, when the angel appears to Mary: 

There is so much going on here: all the movement, that wall exposed showing an ordinary, even poor house instead of a palace, also the way that wall kind of traps Mary in a corner--amazing and full of wonder!

So that's Venice through my eyes. tomorrow we travel to Assisi, a very different kind of place: a town, not a city, and the home of St. Francis. We'll change trains in Florence, but the railway station is all we'll see. So it's sunset for me in Venice:

Ciao!

Morning Walk and Artful Pleasures

As I leave the door to our building, I see our little canal in (relatively) early light.

Our nearest vaporetto stop bears the name of this bridge-Guglia--and a lovely, small bakery is almost right behind me.

Now I'm on the bridge showing you the traffic on the canal and in particular--wait for it!---a vaporetto!

approaching our usual stop:

It is a short walk (when unencumbered with luggage) to the train station (or Ferrovia); notice the increased traffic on the canal:

We three are en route to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection of modern art, collected primarily from 1938-1946.  Although I enjoyed this collection, I realized that I am still under the spell of my recent visit to the Accademia and the Pre-Renaissance and Renaissance art there.

sculpture garden

Magritte

Max Ernst's Sea, Sun, Earthquake

Some paintings didn't photograph well because of reflections, in particular a piece by Jackson Pollock.

Bob & Denise

View toward the Accademia Bridge with yet another vaporetto!

Right across the canal from San Marco and its campanile is San Giorgio Maggiore and its bell tower. Following a canalside lunch, we floated to the top in an elevator (thank goodness!) and reveled in the spectacular view. Another stunning day!

Campanile at St. Marks, St Marks' domes tucked in behind the Doge's Palace

Looking toward Murano Island and another bell tower.

Inside the church itself now, where organ concerts are sometimes held--they would be incredible in this huge space!! But here is some of the art:

 God on top of the world because his love spreads to all the world; he wears a triangular halo representing the Trinity.

The Last Supper by Tintoretto: isn't the diagonal orientation of the table fascinating?!

And a tender, precious Nativity by Jacopo Bassano

The dinner you are about to see was night before last, it appears in this blog because 1. I forgot my camera, and 2. Bob just sent me the pictures.  It was a fantastic, delciosa meal!!! Casa Bonita, right on our big canal.

Denise's beef with fungi & truffles

my incredible carbonara

(I apologize for losing Bob's spaghetti.)

Fantastico!!! I wish they had a Reno branch!!! Only one more full day here, sob!

Ciao!!!

To the Lido!

One of the 117 or so islands in Venice's lagoon is the Lido.

Denise, Bob, and I vaporettoed out there today, so Bob could swim. The Lido, you see, is a resort island and has swimming beaches. Many are private but we visited one that was free.

 

Note the forest of 'for rent' umbrellas and chaise longues.

 Bob went for two swims and felt very good. Denise and Jackie went for walks along--and in--the water.  

 

This is the Adriatic, a new body of water for me!

Our return ride took us along the Grand Canal:

 San Giorgio Maggiore

La Salute Church

One of several rowing teams enjoying the day.

Many gondolas out too.

 The Rialto Bridge, where we disembarked

to buy Jennifer's bag. 

She chose the blue one.

I've mentioned the vaporetto several times, and ridden at least once every day. This is what it looks like inside:

just like a city bus. 

I found an art book about the Accademia Museum that I visited yesterday, and I learned the name of the sweet saint I admired; remember this guy?

It's Saint Stephen, who was stoned to death, pictured with the rocks like floating eggs on his head and shoulders. Fun to recognize, isn't it?

 And to end the day, here's the evening view off our front balcony:

Ciao!