Thursday, October 8, 2015

Happy Birthday to Me!

I imagine this will be a one-of-a-kind birthday--Machu Picchu!  It was a spectacular day! But it's a long way from Urubama in the Saccred Valley to that magnificent mountaintop!

First stop was the studio of ceramic artist  Semenario. 
As you see, we were invited to meet him--in his studio! 
t was thrilling to hear how his work has evolved, and just to BE in his studio. I could go on and on about this adventure, which is only the beginning of this festive day.

Down the road a ways, we met this lovely woman, Flora, in the bar run by her aunt. Flora is stirring a batch of fermented sprouting corn to make a light beer. The vat she is stirring is for ladies and has strawberries in it.

This glass is for the men, but it was my birthday after all!
Oh, this is the cuy (guinea pig) room, you select your cuy and she will bake it up for you--yikes! No thanks!

Bus, two-hour train ride to Aguas Calientes, then another bus to Machu Picchu. Look at the line of people waiting to go down--

a good time to arrive, I thought, but there were still plenty of folks. Not much waiting to enter and--wow! there it was!
Now, here's the scoop: I don't recall the names of the individual buildings and temples we visited, so I'll post photos and you can enjoy looking at them:

Those steps are killers, let me tell you! There are thousands and thousands of them, some 12" tall.



One more, and I'll continue later, so I can zap this off to you.
Oh, just one more--


Monday, October 5, 2015

A raft to Ollantaytambo


Ollantaytambo! Say that fast three times, your tongue will get tangled for sure! It is an Incan town and temple site. But, don't forget the raft--

the whole merry band, I think.

It was mostly a gentle float down the Urubamba River, so beautifully calm and quiet. I was in the front, so I didn't hear a lot of what the guide was saying except the occassional 'Forward!' or 'Reverse!,' but I savored the peaceful landscape.
If you just saw that photograph somewhere, would you imagine it was taken in Peru?

From the raft we saw terraced fields where corn was raised, and in front of them near the middle of the picture, is corn. It is only just planting season, so it isn't high yet. They can get two crops per year.

At the end of the ride, there was--no surprise!--this woman vendor with her daughter. Mine was the first raft to appear, and I saw her pull the skirt onto her daughter. They were charming.

Yesterday we saw a foot plow, used with person-power alone, and a yoke of oxen pulling a plow with two men. It looked like such a struggle! 

Then to the Inca Village of Ollayntaytambe. It's kind (so I repeated a word in the same line--it's early here!)  the people really do live in the houses and are not actors. We visited one home:

Inside was certainly rustic as well, though there were two more rooms (one a bathroom) we didn't see. It was decorated with many items related to the native religions including some fetal animals hanging on the wall and skulls of ancestors.  I decided not to share those.

This fellow is some kind of god who grants wishes after you tie replicas of desired items around his neck and allow him to smoke once a week. He had a cigarette butt in his mouth--

The woman of the house also raised cuy, or guinea pigs. They are eaten around 6 months old, as older than that there isn't as much meat. So it's a pretty manageable source of protein and has been since before Inca times.

These are native women organized to meet us by our guide, who said the rural people still dress the traditional way. (They are spinning some kind of wool.)

Now to the religious site, comprised of several temples (sun, moon, earth, and water), and this pyramid, very tall! Grazing in front of it are vicunas and an alpaca.

I did make it to the top, but it was a struggle. In the village the sun was very strong and hot, and I was getting concerned, but it clouded over, and a little rain fell, cooling it off perfectly! 
I am standing here in front of the facade of the Temple to the Sun.

 On the way down--steep and quite irregular steps as you can imagine, these friends are stopped with our guide Maricela.
Notice the carved stones fitted together without mortar. We'll see more, much larger!

What goes up must come down, and here I am safe! Do you see those specks of people? They are about halfway up.

A few more images

That uploaded quickly, so I'll finish now.

This is the native garb; if you can enlarge, look at the headdress on the man on the right.

What is it, you ask?
Why, it's cuy cooked the way the people here generally eat it. I ate some, see--

I really did eat it, kind of smoky from the grill and a little wild tasting, though it's guinea pig!!!

Sorry to rush off, I'm going rafting now!

Hooray for the high country!


Flew from LIma to Cusco; we're in the Andes now! It feels so good to be in mountains--I'm just not a city girl, though they have much to offer, of course.

Our guide often stops for interesting things, like these men putting the roof on a new house:
wood, mud, thatch, tiles. The house, as are all I can see here, is made of adobe bricks. I could see them drying in several places, but, of course, the bus was moving, and the photo was a blur. Lots of construction--


Above the Sacred Valley!


Vendors everywhere add intense color.


This valley enabled the Incas to supply their large cities with food. Following is a mountainside with deep, terraces. First they cut the mountain into those level spaces, then built retaining walkks, hauled in topsoil--then they could plant.


This is but one of dozens of fortresses on passes to protect Cusco, the center of the Inca universe.

I'm going to stop now to try to upload this. More later....


Saturday, October 3, 2015

Final Day in Lima

And what a busy day it has been! Five people joined the tour, and they are all lovely, friendly folk! It's a good group to be with.

Following breakfast we bussed to the center of the old city and visited an archaeology museum. Our guide, Dante, is excellent; he shares his excitement with us easily!
Here are a few of the artifacts there:
a Venus figure, as in a fertility figure, not a Botticelli

a cool carving, perhaps of some diety

re-creation of a tomb with mummies, seated in the fetal position

Silver head dresses, which look very Japanese to me
Is this guy cool or what?!!!

On our way to the cathedral near the house of the president. This is that same 'box-on-box' architecture. Pretty good specimens.

There are people rushing among cars selling all kinds of goods, this man stayed on the sidewalk selling tamales.

Cathedral near president's house--impressive!

A library established in a former railroad station. If you can enlarge, the figure on the left is holding a locomotive!

Pedestrian area near cathedral

My first selfie! The youing man to my left taught me how to capture the beach below. We had such fun with them!

Then back to the hotel for a rest; soon we'll be off to dinner on the waterfront below that mountain in my selfie. We already signed up for our choices to eat; I can't remember my request except for fish, since we leave the coast tomorrow, and  a dessert of blue corn pudding. I think we had it once in the Amazon.

I've been drinking Chicha Morada at every opportunity; it's also made from blue corn. Those of you in Reno can get it at the corner of Kietzke and Moaa, northwest corner. I recommend it!

Friday, October 2, 2015

Back in Lima again

So, here I am, back in Lima. Same hotel, different room. Comfortable. One problem--not earthshattering as I initially thought --the ipad mini died. Sad but true, and with it the photos of the wildlife rescue center in our neck of the Amazon rainforest. I feared I'd have to buy a new ipad mini from the I Store down the street (Happy Birthday, Merry Christmas!), but Mary Anne realized the keyboard from the mini should work with my phone as well. With a little help from I Store tech, I am typing away. To rescue you from possible photo deprivation, I send you this one of Lima's gray skies, taken from my new room.
Tomorrow more to come, but for now, I bid you good evening.

Thursday, October 1, 2015

Buenos Dias, my dear friends!

That's the greeting our guide gives us every day, so I'm sharing it with you. The sentiment is true.

Thiis is another quick posting. We left the lodge at 6:00 to visit a market in a town of 5000 just a short way from here by boat. The town is named Indiana after the state where a wealthy man's son went to medical school--fun, isn't it, how places get their names.

But here is the market: